Airbrush Tanning: A 3 Step Process
To acquire a flawless, long-lasting airbrush tan requires a three step process: proper exfoliation, the tanning procedure itself,
and moisturization. If you are engaged in providing an airbrush tanning service, it also offers additional revenue opportunities --
through the resale of individual products to your clients.
Exfoliation
A sunless tan is produced on the outer layer of the skin's epidermis and is subject to the normal skin shedding cycle. At any time, some
of this exposed layer may be ready to slough off while other parts may be freshly renewed. The use of a physical dermal exfoliator provides
a consistent, fresh layer of skin to serve as the base for a sunless tan. Exfoliation should be performed the night before or on the morning
of an airbrush tanning session.
Another excellent product of this type can be applied at the point of service. Called by various names, this Pre Tan Skin Preparation, is applied by
airbrush, trigger bottle, or sponge and then wiped down with a towel -- a paper towel works well. About 1 Oz suffices. This product
balances the skin PH, removes excess oils and perfumes, and enhances the ability of the DHA to penetrate the outer skin layer.
Ideally, both types of exfoliation should be performed. But the point of sale skin prep solution allows spontaneous walk-in traffic to be served and
ameliorates inconsistent or improper exfoliation by the client.
The tanning store caries several brands of both types of products.
Airbrush Tanning Process
An airbrush procedure is explained in another section of this manual. Airbrush tanning solutions typically contain two bronzing agents: an immediate bronzer
and the active tanning agent, DHA. In most solutions the DHA takes about 10 hours to fully develop. The first shower is recommended no sooner than 10-12 hours
for most solutions. Accelerated tanning solutions such as our NOW! label fully develop in 4 hours, so the shower can be taken sooner. Much of the immediate bronzer
will wash off in the first shower, revealing the developed DHA tan beneath.
The solution should be matched to the client skin type to the degree possible. A lighter skin type should not receive greater than a 10% solution. A 12% solution may
be indicated for a darker skin type. The application amount should be carefully controlled. A 4 Oz application of 6% DHA solution is equivalent to a normal
2 Oz application of 12% DHA solution. One of the common causes of the dreaded orange color is misapplication.
A stonger solution can be diluted if necessary to match the solution to the client. Adding about 1/2 Oz of distilled water to a 2 Oz application will result take a 10%
solution to an 8%.
Moisturization
The active ingredient in sunless tanning solutions, DHA, has a drying effect. Proper moisturization offsets this effect and prolongs the skin renewal cycle --
resulting in a long lasting sunless tan. There are two categories of moisturizers for sunless tanning: moisturizers without DHA and those with DHA, essentilly "light"
sunless lotions. These approaches can be used separately or together for good effect.
Tan extender moisturizers with DHA contain 3% or less DHA on average. Compare this to a SUN labs sunless lotion which may contain about 8% DHA. The tan extender,
with a lower DHA %, is appropriate for more frequent use while a true sunless lotion would not be applied daily. This type of moisturizer can be used to deepen and
prolong a tan. Someone with lighter skin may opt not to use this type of product heavily -- if they received a normal application amount in their
tanning session. Or, if they received a less concentrated DHA solution on application, they could use the extender lotion to gradually darken their
tan in accordance with how well they tolerate additional DHA.
The tanning store offers several brands of quality, economical moisturizers with and without DHA.
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